Landscape and Plant Problem Diagnostic Guide
This guide is designed to help you identify what is actually going wrong in your yard. Plant death is rarely random. With the right signs and symptoms, you can figure out what happened and what needs to change. Below is a practical breakdown of the most common problems we diagnose, what causes them, and how to confirm them before trying to treat or replace anything.
This is not a chemical recommendation sheet — it is a guide for understanding and observing.
Section 1 — Stress Signs and Site Conditions
More than half of all landscape problems we diagnose come down to site conditions, not pests or diseases. The top contributors are water, exposure, compaction, and poor planting technique.
Look for these signs:
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Leaf curl or tip burn on evergreens usually means underwatering or wind burn
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Yellowing from the inside out often means overwatering or poor drainage
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Slow, stunted growth with pale foliage usually means compaction or root stress
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Brown edges on shade plants can mean too much sun or reflected heat from nearby surfaces
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One-sided dieback may signal improper planting depth or rot on the shaded root zone
Always ask:
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Was it planted too deep?
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Does this area puddle after rain?
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How much sun does this get and when?
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Was any weed killer used nearby?
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Has anything changed recently — grading, irrigation, shade?
Most symptoms begin with stress and environment. Fix that first before applying any treatment.
Section 2 — Pest and Disease Clues
Not every spot, hole, or chew mark is an infestation. Learn to identify pattern damage versus random exposure.
🪲 Insect signs:
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Clean, circular holes in leaves usually indicate beetles
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Chewed tips with ragged edges can be caterpillars
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Fine webs in early summer often mean spider mites — check by tapping foliage over white paper
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Honeydew or black sooty mold often points to aphids, scale, or whitefly
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Tiny stippled leaves on conifers suggest lacebug or mite activity
🌿 Fungal and disease symptoms:
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Black spots with yellow haloes: common in roses and viburnum
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Powdery film on leaves: mildew, especially in shady or damp areas
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Dieback from tips inward: could be Phytophthora, especially in wet soil
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Brown blotches on hydrangeas: often bacterial leaf spot, worsened by overhead watering
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Rust-colored dots on back of leaves: rust fungus, common on perennials in late summer
Inspect the underside of leaves, not just the top. Most pests hide underneath. Use a magnifier or phone zoom for better accuracy.
Section 3 — Diagnostic by Plant Type
Different plants show stress in different ways.
Here are quick indicators for common material:
🌲 Arborvitae:
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Browning tips in winter = windburn
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Inner needle drop in fall = normal
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Entire side browning = root or water issue
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Deer damage = missing bottom foliage or uneven line near base
🌳 Boxwood:
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Pale yellow leaves = too wet or compacted soil
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Browning from base up = root rot or blight
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Cracking bark = freeze damage or mechanical injury
🌸 Hydrangea:
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No bloom = improper pruning or too much shade
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Wilting in sun = shallow roots or hot site
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Brown splotches = leaf spot or poor airflow
🌿 Hosta:
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Shredded leaves = slugs or hail
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Burnt edge = too much sun or too little water
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Curling = wind stress or chemical drift
🍃 Japanese Maple:
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Tip burn = dry wind or shallow planting
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Bare spots = sun scald or root disease
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Pale foliage = poor soil or drainage
Final Tip:
Keep a photo log of changes. Take wide shots monthly and close-ups weekly if problems arise. Send them in with any service request — it helps diagnose far faster than memory or vague descriptions.